
The Capital Region Beekeepers Association (CRBA) meets on the second Thursday of every month.
This meeting usually starts with a beginners/intermediate beekeeper corner 30 minutes before the regular club proceedings start around 7pm.
Agenda
6:30pm – New Beekeepers Corner
7:00pm – Broader Club Meeting
- Welcome – Bill F
- Update from our Inspector – Tara G
- Iotron Trip – Alanna M
- What to do in February and March – Larry L
- Bee packages and Nucs
Minutes
- Meeting started at 6:30pm (via Zoom)
- Don begins the New Beekeeper Corner (approx. 25 attendees)
- Introduces us to the HoneybeeSuite website
- Introduction to what Apis Mellifera is
- 3 casts (worker, drone, queen)
- Life cycle of the honeybee
- Wild bees live in tree cavities; Not many tree cavities left
- Lorenzo Langstroth invented the removable frame hive; Typical of what we regard as a “beehive”.
- Other hive types are also available.
- What you need to start
- Hive (boxes, frames)
- Tool
- Smoker
- Sugarwater
- Suit
- Nuc
- If you already have drawn comb, you can start with a package.
- Otherwise, you’ll need a nuc which is a small hive including 4 to 5 frames of drawn comb and bees.
- Local bees are typically better than imported bees as they are better-adapted to the environment.
- Where do you get your bees from?
- Local nucs usually don’t show up until May, but are normally the best option.
- List of providers on CRBA website.
- Another website called Scientific Beekeeping. For more advanced and in depth information.
- Q & A
- Peppermint spray instead of smoke?
- Seems plain water works just as well.
- Feral Colonies – do they exist here?
- Differentiate between Feral colonies and swarms.
- Often local feral colonies are last year’s beekeeper’s swarm.
- Don is aware of one in an Oak tree.
- Not many feral colonies in general.
- Antibiotics
- Generally not used.
- Mites are the big issue – organic acids are the common treatment.
- What should we be doing in February?
- Look for wax moth in unused frames
- Put in freezer if you find any
- Prepare for Iotron trip.
- Generally get prepared for March
- Supplemental feeding if you have access without opening hive.
- Bees are starting to raise brood at this time.
- Number of boxes to overwinter and 8 versus 10 frame boxes?
- “3 beekeepers, 5 answers”
- Typically 2 boxes for winter – one for brood, one for food.
- Don has a little bit of everything.
- Most efficient size for heat is a ball, so a square hive would be the equivalent.
- Flow hives
- Gimmicky
- Expensive
- Not something for a new beekeeper
- Don is not aware of anyone who has had success.
- Box of comb from dead colony – mildew
- Bees will clean it up.
- Can use peroxide.
- Reuse honey from a colony that didn’t overwinter
- Why didn’t it overwinter? Did it have disease? (AFB spores for example can survive.)
- If they just got cold or had mites, it wouldn’t be a problem.
- Absconding seems to have been an issue this year.
- Thanks to Don for hosting the beginners corner.
- Bill Fosdick (President of the CRBA) welcomes everyone to the CRBA online meeting (approx. 40 attendees)
- Bill gives an overview of the agenda.
- Tara Galpin – Provincial Bee Inspector for lower island region
- David McDonald has retired
- Tara’s job is support beekeepers in dealing with honeybee pests and diseases.
- AFB (American Foulbrood)
- Tara presents on the characteristics of AFB.
- If you see an abandoned hive, report it.
- Old equipment must be inspected before sale.
- Do not feed commercial honey to your bees.
- Life cycle
- Identification
- Tara presents the differences between AFB and EFB.
- EFB is currently a problem on the mainland (snotbrood). EFB tends to show up when there is a stress on the colony. Blueberry pollen does not have enough protein. Also more alkaline.
- If you suspect you have a diseased colony email or call Tara.
- Management of AFB.
- Preventing AFB.
- Questions:
- When Tara comes to the island?
- Needs enough sites to visit to justify trip.
- Depends on urgency and volume.
- No scale to Iotron?
- Best not to send frames with scale. Can send honey frames from AFB hive.
- AFB will be killed, but scale will remain, so you won’t know whether it is old or new scale in the future.
- Do anything to soil around hive that had AFB?
- Never had that come up as an issue.
- Should remove and burn any bees.
- Effect of Iotron on honey?
- Recommend extracting as much honey as possible before sending equipment to Iotron.
- Honey also acts to block the Iotron radiation.
- How long until AFB or EFB shows up in a caught swarm?
- Depends – you just have to watch the colony and see how strong the colony is. Use best judgement.
- If your hive swarms, can you put it back in your original hive or a new hive?
- Put it into a new box, otherwise they’ll likely just leave again.
- You can eventually recombine them later in the season.
- Do the spores survive the Iotron?
- When you burn, what do you burn?
- Generally the whole thing, although you can potentially save the boxes by sending to Iotron or scorching the box.
- If you cannot burn, the club has a pass to dispose at Hartland dump.
- Important that you do it with CRBA permit so it is disposed of properly.
- Where can one purchase AFB resistant queens?
- Tara will send some names of general sources of strong bees.
- Tara’s contact information is on the government site.
- Thank you to Tara for joining us tonight.
- Iotron visit
- Trip at beginning of March
- iotron@capitalregionbeekeepers.ca
- Truck leaves in the morning and returns the same day.
- Higher level radiation being used this year
- Due to prevalence of AFB and EFB on mainland.
- Honey in the frames may be “cooked”.
- Generally not a good idea to have honey in the frames going over.
- Do an inventory of equipment you want to send NOW.
- Bag in garbage bags and tape. Do not want it to fall apart in transit.
- Check for instructions on website.
- Larry – What to do in February/March
- AFB – it is much simpler to burn your frames than to send to Iotron. Bees have to tear all the comb down anyway to remove scale.
- Frames going to Iotron should contain no honey. It reduces the radiation.
- Monitor your hives
- Make sure your tops are aligned – wind
- May find dead bees – usually older foragers.
- Should have completed vapourizing for mites.
- Keep bottom boards and entrances clear.
- If it gets above 15C and no bees flying – check that hive.
- Remove mouseguards. Can clog up with dead bees.
- Heft your hives. If light – feed.
- Emergency feed – fondant candy board or dry sugar – if warm you can switch to liquid. Pollen – will stimulate brood rearing – increase chance of swarming.
- Can use up to 2lbs of honey per day while brood rearing.
- Can bump side of hive to listen for buzzing.
- Ventilation – upper entrance is great for ventilation and if bottom gets blocked.
- Assess equipment for coming year.
- Replace old dark comb in frames not currently in use.
- Render wax for sale
- Develop new markets for your products.
- Read journals, books, etc.
- Weather is the ultimate calendar for taking care of your bees.
- Stick with proven methods for treating pests and disease.
- And a story…a Canadian government scrapyard.
- Thanks to Larry.
- Open the floor to further questions
- Note from Bill – don’t be tepid new beekeepers – you’ll need more equipment than you think.
- How do you check hive weight?
- Put your hand in handhold of bottom super.
- If you can lift with 3 fingers without too much effort, you need to feed.
- Hive registration
- Update registration every 2 years.
- Update if the number of colonies changes significantly.
- You will be notified of disease outbreak in your area.
- If you have multiple locations each needs to be registered
- What is the cutoff for mites in hive for permit to sell?
- What temperature can you do your first inspection after winter?
- Greater than 10C. 15C preferred.
- If bees covering 7 frames, add up to 3 supers.
- Bill thanks everyone and wraps up the meeting at 8:15 pm.
Related